Our first stop was the Jewish Quarter where we visited the Remuh Synagogue, one of the few left in Cracow. It couldn't have held more than eighty or ninety people, but then there aren't that many Jews left in the city. Before the war, there had been as many as 70,000. Between 200 and 300 remained. On the synagogue grounds was an ancient and historic cemetery. The tomb of Rabbi Moses Isserles Remuh, a scholar of the sixteenth century, was in a fenced-off plot there.